We Romanians are one of the nations where polenta is a staple food. This is somewhat surprizing, considering that Romania is geographically on the opposite side of the world from the Americas, where corn was initially grown. Yet, over centuries, corn has become an integral part of our culinary identity, deeply embedded in our traditions and culture.
Corn and polenta have a captivating history in Europe. Maize was first introduced to Spain in 1530 and gradually spread across the continent during the 16th century. The earliest references to polenta in its modern form come from northern Italy, where corn replaced other grains to create a porridge-like dish.
From Italy, maize made its way to Romania, becoming a staple in the diet of impoverished peasants. Some historical records show corn was cultivated in Croatia as early as 1611. In Romania, maize was introduced in Timișoara, located in the western part of the country, in 1692. From there, its cultivation spread along the Danube valley. By the late 19th century, polenta had become a widespread dietary staple for Romanians, especially among the rural population. However, its overconsumption, combined with a lack of dietary diversity, led to health issues such as pellagra, a nutrient-deficiency disease.
Despite its relatively recent introduction, corn has become deeply embedded in Romanian culinary traditions, with distinct terms used for its products. In English, “polenta” often refers both to the dish and the flour it’s made from, but in Romanian, the terminology is more specific:
- The plant and its kernels are called porumb (corn).
- The coarsely ground corn used to make polenta is mălai or mălai grișat.
- Finely ground cornmeal is referred to as făină de porumb (corn flour), though it’s less commonly used in Romanian cuisine.
For polenta, or mămăliga, Romanians exclusively use mălai. Using finely ground cornmeal instead results in a bland and unappetizing porridge. Many Romanian corn processors don’t produce cornmeal, so it often has to be imported for recipes requiring it.
To illustrate the difference between the two types of corn milling, look at the picture below. On the left is mălai, the coarsely ground corn used for polenta, while on the right is cornmeal, the finely ground variety used for other dishes.
As the image shows, there is a significant difference between the two types of grinding. For clarity, I’ll use the term “coarsely ground corn flour” or “polenta flour” to refer to the mălai used for making polenta. At the same time, “cornmeal” will describe the finely ground variety suited for other culinary purposes.
This distinction is crucial, especially for Romanians, where making polenta is as much about tradition as it is about taste. It’s a simple dish, yet one that tells a rich story of cultural adaptation and culinary ingenuity.